Sunday 15 March 2015

Ack Värmeland du sköna

For many years I've pondered the concept of home. Is it 'where the heart is' or 'wherever I lay my hat' or 'Tennessee Mountain' or something altogether different? I'm just back from a brief sojourn to the motherland and I've only just emerged from my customary, temporary, heightened state of flux where home is a duplicity. Sheffield is my home as an independent grown up, where I pay rent and tax (but not allowed to vote) and spend most of my money and days. Damn fine city too, on the move I tell thee, I won't have a bad word said about it.

At the same time home proper is always going to be Sweden, the old and free, the crown in Svea's empire of nations. Sweden provides my identity and I shall carry an unflinching sense of Swedishness with me to the day I die. Most people who have spent time in my presence would probably testify to my penchant for Swedo-gushing at any given opportunity, particularly its relative superiority in comparison with neighbouring countries. Having lived as an ex-pat for the majority of my adult life, I fully acknowledge that I regard Sweden through rose tinted (Superdry Caine) glasses. A sprinkling of xenophobia is allowed in my book. In fairness though it's far from a perfect utopia. It's got its flaws and problems like anywhere else, but it's beautifully flawed, inhabited by a population of confidence-reducing beauty. In short a supreme place to be.

I'm an ardent advocate of Sweden as a tourist destination. Few places have such a multi-dimensional and multi-faceted impact on the senses. Breathtaking is an overused term but highly applicable when describing the vistas that Sweden offers. Spectacular landscapes are all around, from the mountain regions of the North to the yellow rapeseed plains of the south. It doesn't matter where you are, on the coast or inland, mother nature is right there by your side. Free of charge. With an abundance of fresh air and botanical odours. And you get four distinct seasons, just as God the creator intended. If you've not been yet you should make it a priority. The world's most punctual airline gets you there on the cheap. And on time. Or if you've got a bigger budget you can pay a bit more and help the ailing Scandinavian Airlines stay in business.

When it comes to Sweden as a country of residence the picture is a bit different. It's a ridiculously regulated society. In some respects that's a good thing, there's a form of social discipline ingrained in folk in general, but it can also be stifling, especially for individuals who don't fit with Swedish norms. There's an unwritten 'law' that Swedes are meant to abide by called Jantelagen, which basically dictates that people shouldn't think they're something or someone. Any action, behaviour or lifestyle that's lacking humility or restraint is generally frowned upon. Boasting might as well be a criminal offence. For all its reputation as a liberal country, it's strangely judgemental and intolerant. In a respectful and mild mannered way of course.

The good far outweighs the bad mind. Never a stranger to a list, here's my top 10 reasons why Sweden is fantastic

1. Värmland - My home county so I'm biased and not afraid to say that it's the best county in Sweden. Varied and interesting countryside, mixing hilly forests, sprawling farm lands and more than 3000 lakes. The dialect is one of a kind, full of charm whilst perplexing and a source of amusement to anyone not from there. The birthplace of Selma Lagerlöf, Gustaf Fröding, Zarah Leander and Sven Göran Eriksson, Värmland has its own song 'Ack Värmeland, du Sköna', dating back to the early 1800s. A beautiful, haunting and wistful piece of music, it's quite possibly my favourite song of all time. I want it played at my funeral, on repeat.

2. Swedish pop - Pop music is serious business in Sweden. There's no coincidence that the Swedish music exports are worth more than 150 million US dollars every year, the largest per capita in the world. I LOVE Swedish pop, I literally can't live without it. A day without a few spins of Swedish tones is simply a shit day. Of course everyone knows Abba, rightly so. Most will probably remember Roxette, The Cardigans and Ace of Base. Avicii is a Swede. And if the world wasn't so feckle, Robyn would be bigger than Rihanna and Beyonce combined. But there's so much more to enjoy, you could do worse than investigate some, or all, of the following: Kent, The Knife, Fever Ray, Army of Lovers, Laleh, Tove Styrke, Sophie Zelmani, Lili & Sussie/Susie, Lykke Li, Freddie Wadling, Tove Lo, The Sounds, Alcazar, Amanda Jenssen, The Ark, Anna Ternheim, Miss Li, Lars Winnerbäck, Christian Kjellvander, Titiyo, BWO, Stina Nordenstam, Agnes, Loreen, Stockholm Syndrome, Weeping Willows, Mando Diao. And throw in a bit of Dr Alban for good measure.

3. Equality - As a country, Sweden's commitment to equality and fairness is really rather evident in everyday life. Gender equality is norm, it's legally binding to promote gender equality in education, and discrimination on any basis is strongly opposed. Legislation has helped drive social change, women were given the right to vote in the early 1920s and homosexuality was de-criminalised in 1944 (though it remained a mental health condition til 1979). One of the best examples of Swedish attitudes of today is this clip from the annual QX Gay Gala, where awards are given to Homo and Hetero of the Year amongst others.


Amazing. Can't quite imagine Prince Charles doing the same somehow.

4. Feministiskt Initiativ - So gender equality is meant to be the norm but of course true equality will never happen as long as we live in a patriarchal society. The feminist movement will rage on for many years therefore. In Sweden there's now a mainstream political party, Feministiskt Initiativ, based on feminist ideals and the equality for all agenda. In last year's European Parliament election they gained their first MEP and narrowly missed out on a place in Swedish Parliament in the September elections. Roll on 2018!

5. Allemansrätten - The freedom to roam legislation grants the general public access to roam around freely on public or privately owned land for the purpose of recreation. Everyone loves a roam.You can basically roam on any land that isn't someone's garden. This means that people can go for hikes, bike, ski, camp out, visit small idyllic beaches and pick wild mushrooms and berries in the countryside, for free, regardless of who actually owns the land in question. Everyone needs to roam responsibly though - the motto is 'do not disturb, do not destroy'.

6. The welfare state - It's definitely not as welfarey as it used to be but it's still damned good, particularly around parental leave and unemployment benefits. The top tax rate for the stinking rich is 60%. Word! Long may it continue.

7. Swedish meatballs - Easily the best meatball there is. I consume on a monthly basis, never deviating from the simple recipe. Some things don't require change.

8. Retail giants - Clearly not everyone's cup of tea, but Swedish global retail giants Ikea and H&M have made the world just a little bit better. Cheap furniture, 'fun' flatpacks, cheap meatballs and hot dogs, the Swedish food shop, dubious nazi connections. Cheap clothes, dubious sweatshop factories. What more can you ask for?

As the protracted Sheffield branch of Ikea is yet to open, I visited the store in Karlstad, Värmland whilst at home. Bought some cheap tea towels for £1.50.



Also bought a cushion inner to go with a previously purchased cushion cover. At the time I picked up the wrong size inner, much to my chagrin, so I've not been able to use the cushion. The inner was meant to have cost £1.50 but I somehow failed to scan the barcode at the self service till which meant that I inadvertently shop lifted it. Criminal.




I also picked up a blue jumper for £8 in the sale in KappAhl, a clothes chain similar to Next in approach and offerings.



Good colour. I also bought a pair of trousers for the same price in KappAhl. The random sales rack proved rather fruitful.



Going back to H&M, I was killing some time in town after work last Friday so strolled in to their shop in Sheffield city centre and this jumper was directly in my eye line. Deliberated for all of 10 seconds before heading to the tills. £14.99 it set me back. Worth it I reckon.




9. Stockholm - One of my favourite cities in the whole wide world, despite all the pretentious 08or that inhabit it

10. It's not Norway, say no more.


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